When the pellet stove will not ignite
The typical sign of a defective igniter is that the stove feeds pellets into the burn pot without igniting them and after a while goes into alarm with an ignition fault. An igniter that is about to fail can also result in ignition taking significantly longer than normal.
With the power disconnected, the igniter can be tested with a multimeter. If there is no continuity, the heating coil is broken and the igniter must be replaced.
If the measurement shows continuity, the fault is probably elsewhere. A hole by the igniter clogged with ash or slag prevents the heat from reaching the pellets. A leaking burn pot or gasket draws in false air, causing the pellets to cool instead of ignite, and damp pellets also ignite poorly. If the fault cannot be found, the stove can be submitted for repair and service.
Thread, flange, sleeve or smooth
The new igniter must be fitted in exactly the same way as the old one, and five fitting principles recur across brands.
Igniters with Thread are screwed directly into the stove and are typically available with 3/8" or 1/2" Thread. Igniters with a flange have a collar that holds the igniter at the correct depth. Smooth igniters without Thread are held in place by an igniter holder, and some stoves use an igniter adapter with 3/8" Thread between the igniter and stove. Igniters with a sleeve are located inside a metal sleeve and have the largest diameter in the range, from 20 to 25 mm.
Ceramic igniters are available in both round and flat versions and with the same fitting principles. A ceramic igniter typically heats up faster and lasts longer than a steel igniter, which is constructed as a heating coil in a stainless steel tube. In return, the ceramic models cost more, especially the flat ones and those with a sleeve.
How to measure the old igniter
If you do not know the brand and model, the igniter can be identified by dimensions, and the measurement direction depends on the type. An igniter with Thread is measured from the end to the hexagon, an igniter with a flange from the end to the flange, and a smooth igniter is measured from end to end. Diameter and wattage must also match the old one. All dimension-specific models are grouped under custom-size igniter.
The igniters are supplied without plugs. The wires are joined with a connector sleeve behind the stove, so it is a good idea to have one ready when the old igniter needs to be removed.
Same model, different igniter
A model name is not always enough, as several manufacturers have changed igniters during a model's lifespan. At Aduro, the P1 series and P4/P5 each use their own igniter with a flange, while the H models have a round ceramic one. At MCZ, Aike Comfort Air is available both in a Maestro version with a ceramic flange igniter and in a 2.0 version that uses an igniter with Thread. For Ravelli, igniters are available that only fit from a specific serial number, and for Palazzetti and Ecofire, flange, sleeve and Thread versions are available depending on the model.
The type plate is therefore the safest starting point. It is typically located on the back of the stove and states both the model and serial number, and a photo of it is enough for us to find the igniter that fits.
